March 29, 2011
I picked up some lower control arms and all the hardware (like those $30 bolts) from Olstons Auto Recyclers for $90. It looks like they had better luck than me for getting the bolts out. Then later pulled the front axle out. Everything went fairly smoothly, just have to put the new one in.
Tuesday, March 29, 2011
I figured it would break
March 19, 2011
Good and bad.
Good: Truck has 4.56 gears in the rear
Bad: Front axle needs replacing, so I'll need to buy/install another set of gears before running 4wd
Oh, and the cam bolt broke in the lower control arm (the other one probably will too). Looks like its time to replace those too. Too bad they are $30 each from the dealer.
Good and bad.
Good: Truck has 4.56 gears in the rear
Bad: Front axle needs replacing, so I'll need to buy/install another set of gears before running 4wd
Oh, and the cam bolt broke in the lower control arm (the other one probably will too). Looks like its time to replace those too. Too bad they are $30 each from the dealer.
Track Bar Drops
March 18, 2011
Used an air hammer and pickle fork to muscle the track bar out of the frame. That thing was in really poor shape. The ball end was completely trashed. It was missing the back cover and the cup the ball sits in was basically disintegrated. The axle side wasn't any better. The bushing was oval'd and completely worn through on one side. Either that thing had some miles on it, or MOOG makes a shitty product. Probably a little of both.
Going to pick up some axles on Sunday to replace my front one, and maybe the back depending on gear ratio. I still need to check my rear end to make sure it hasn't had a gear swap. I'll probably run them as is for now until I get some more cash to do wheel bearings, then replace the ball joints and wheel bearings. I would settle for just ball joints now and wheel bearings later, but there is a good chance the wheel bearings are seized the the hub and will be ruined trying to get them out.
Used an air hammer and pickle fork to muscle the track bar out of the frame. That thing was in really poor shape. The ball end was completely trashed. It was missing the back cover and the cup the ball sits in was basically disintegrated. The axle side wasn't any better. The bushing was oval'd and completely worn through on one side. Either that thing had some miles on it, or MOOG makes a shitty product. Probably a little of both.
Going to pick up some axles on Sunday to replace my front one, and maybe the back depending on gear ratio. I still need to check my rear end to make sure it hasn't had a gear swap. I'll probably run them as is for now until I get some more cash to do wheel bearings, then replace the ball joints and wheel bearings. I would settle for just ball joints now and wheel bearings later, but there is a good chance the wheel bearings are seized the the hub and will be ruined trying to get them out.
Exhaust Work
March 15, 2011
Replaced the front O2 sensor, bolted up the y-pipe and the rest of the exhaust. Cleaned and painted one of the trans coolers, picking up the second one tomorrow or Thursday.
Replaced the front O2 sensor, bolted up the y-pipe and the rest of the exhaust. Cleaned and painted one of the trans coolers, picking up the second one tomorrow or Thursday.
Little Things
March 12, 2011
Connected the transmission hard lines, replaced the water pump tube o-ring, filled the transmission with fluid, connected the transfer case shifter and bolted in the crossmember fully. Still waiting for a front axle to come up for the price I want.
Connected the transmission hard lines, replaced the water pump tube o-ring, filled the transmission with fluid, connected the transfer case shifter and bolted in the crossmember fully. Still waiting for a front axle to come up for the price I want.
At least the rear looks good
March 10, 2011
Changed the fluid in the rear end, it looked good and no spider gears were missing 
I also hooked up the power steering and connected the trackbar back up to the axle so I could break it loose from the frame. Then I clamped down all the water lines/hoses.
I also hooked up the power steering and connected the trackbar back up to the axle so I could break it loose from the frame. Then I clamped down all the water lines/hoses.What do you do when two spiders break in half?
March 5, 2011
Replaced the TPS (it was throwing a code, voltage too high) and started replacing the diff fluids. The front fluid was pretty thick and I found out why. Two of the spider gears were cracked in half and laying in the back of the diff housing
Looks like an axle replacement is in my future...
Replaced the TPS (it was throwing a code, voltage too high) and started replacing the diff fluids. The front fluid was pretty thick and I found out why. Two of the spider gears were cracked in half and laying in the back of the diff housing
Looks like an axle replacement is in my future...
Thursday, March 3, 2011
Piece by Piece
Today I hooked the wiring harness back up, installed the a/c compressor, connected the spark plug wires (had to replace a couple, they were missing the ends), replaced the transmission filter/fluid, and put on the aluminum transmission pan.
Tuesday, March 1, 2011
Back in Business
March 1, 2011
I swapped to a spare head today. The spark plug was stuck, and definitely not moving. I got everything back to how it was before I started the swap. At least I can run on 8 cylinders now.
Also finally got the transmission linkage unstuck on Saturday. Now I can shift the transmission without park showing as neutral.
Track bar is still being a pain in the ass, so I'm going to get the power steering stuff hooked up, bolt in the axle side of the track bar, and turn from lock to lock a couple of times to see if that breaks the axle side loose.
I swapped to a spare head today. The spark plug was stuck, and definitely not moving. I got everything back to how it was before I started the swap. At least I can run on 8 cylinders now.
Also finally got the transmission linkage unstuck on Saturday. Now I can shift the transmission without park showing as neutral.
Track bar is still being a pain in the ass, so I'm going to get the power steering stuff hooked up, bolt in the axle side of the track bar, and turn from lock to lock a couple of times to see if that breaks the axle side loose.
Tuesday, February 22, 2011
Not there yet...
February 22, 2011
My HID setup was ordered today. I bought a setup that uses digital slim ballasts.
A spark plug broke off in the head. The entire porcelain piece came out, so its just the outer shell. I have some ideas to try before I take the head off.
Also tried getting the track bar out, the frame side seems stuck though. I beat on it with a hammer for a good 20 minutes, along with letting it soak in PB Blaster for a few days before hand.
My HID setup was ordered today. I bought a setup that uses digital slim ballasts.
A spark plug broke off in the head. The entire porcelain piece came out, so its just the outer shell. I have some ideas to try before I take the head off.
Also tried getting the track bar out, the frame side seems stuck though. I beat on it with a hammer for a good 20 minutes, along with letting it soak in PB Blaster for a few days before hand.
Wednesday, February 16, 2011
Round Two
February 15, 2011
Pulled the engine/trans back out, and switched out the flex plate. I also decided to swap in the M1 intake since the gaskets are cheap and its way easier to do when the engine is out. Spark plugs were replaced too. The engine is sitting back in its spot. Still need to bolt it all together and put the wiring harness back. I really hate that crossmember...
Pulled the engine/trans back out, and switched out the flex plate. I also decided to swap in the M1 intake since the gaskets are cheap and its way easier to do when the engine is out. Spark plugs were replaced too. The engine is sitting back in its spot. Still need to bolt it all together and put the wiring harness back. I really hate that crossmember...
Friday, February 11, 2011
First Start
February 11, 2011
Tried starting the engine Thursday, just cranked. Got some gas for it today, the gauge was reading basically empty. Still cranked. After work I started checking for fuel and spark, I wasn't entirely sure that my Jeep crank sensor would work with the truck. I had spark coming from the coil but not the distributor. Found the rotor was missing. After I replaced the rotor, I got the truck started and saw that it wasn't reading any oil pressure
I grabbed the mechanical gauge and found that in reality, there was 65-70lbs of oil pressure at idle cold. Seems I have a bad sensor ground somewhere; there is also a code for TPS voltage too high.
Tried starting the engine Thursday, just cranked. Got some gas for it today, the gauge was reading basically empty. Still cranked. After work I started checking for fuel and spark, I wasn't entirely sure that my Jeep crank sensor would work with the truck. I had spark coming from the coil but not the distributor. Found the rotor was missing. After I replaced the rotor, I got the truck started and saw that it wasn't reading any oil pressure
I grabbed the mechanical gauge and found that in reality, there was 65-70lbs of oil pressure at idle cold. Seems I have a bad sensor ground somewhere; there is also a code for TPS voltage too high.
Thursday, February 10, 2011
Drivetrain Comes Out
January 11, 2011
It was 10* out, but I had some free time so I went ahead and pulled the engine/transmission/transfercase out. I disconnected/removed a bunch of smaller parts on various warm days, so the engine came out in short order. I kept a few spare parts from the old engine such as the a/c compressor, alternator, power steering pump, and the performance parts mentioned in the first post.
It was 10* out, but I had some free time so I went ahead and pulled the engine/transmission/transfercase out. I disconnected/removed a bunch of smaller parts on various warm days, so the engine came out in short order. I kept a few spare parts from the old engine such as the a/c compressor, alternator, power steering pump, and the performance parts mentioned in the first post.
After seeing that picture, I think I've decided the paint the grey part of the bumper, black.
Bedliner fix
October, 2010
The rockers of the truck were painted with bedliner previously, but it was now flaking off. I decided to strip all of the old stuff and bedline the rockers again. I sanded the rockers down to bare metal with a 120 grit flap wheel on my angle grinder. Then I used Rustoleum galvanizing (zinc) primer, followed by the Rustoleum truck bed coating. There is around 4-5 coats of the truck bed coating.
The rockers of the truck were painted with bedliner previously, but it was now flaking off. I decided to strip all of the old stuff and bedline the rockers again. I sanded the rockers down to bare metal with a 120 grit flap wheel on my angle grinder. Then I used Rustoleum galvanizing (zinc) primer, followed by the Rustoleum truck bed coating. There is around 4-5 coats of the truck bed coating.
The First Day
September 19, 2010
Since crushing my ever rusting Jeep Grand Cherokee earlier in the year, I had been looking for a new 4x4 project. I kept the engine/transmission from the Jeep, so I was looking for something in another Grand Cherokee, Durango/Dakota, or Ram.
After lazily searching for a little while, I found this 1996 Dodge Ram that needed an engine and transmission. It wasn't in great shape, but the price was right. It is a red, extended cab with the 5.9L engine. Surprisingly, heat and a/c worked when I picked it up. Currently it is sitting on 3" of body lift, and a 3/2 suspension lift (Rancho shocks all around, Rancho springs in front, and 2" lift blocks in rear). It has aftermarket rims with 35" tires, which need replacing soon.
Some of the cool parts it came with are a manual central axle disconnect, so that takes care of the pesky vacuum control (and makes dropping in a 242 easier), M1 intake, cast aluminum Mopar valve covers, cast aluminum transmission pan, and a 52mm throttle body.
Cosmetically, there is a little rust forming on the passenger wheel arch. Bed liner was sprayed (maybe rolled) in the bed and along the rockers. Evidently the correct preparation wasn't used because its flaking. Rear window needs to be replaced, it looks pretty sketchy. I think the previous, previous owner used RTV to try to "glue" it to the truck
Since crushing my ever rusting Jeep Grand Cherokee earlier in the year, I had been looking for a new 4x4 project. I kept the engine/transmission from the Jeep, so I was looking for something in another Grand Cherokee, Durango/Dakota, or Ram.
After lazily searching for a little while, I found this 1996 Dodge Ram that needed an engine and transmission. It wasn't in great shape, but the price was right. It is a red, extended cab with the 5.9L engine. Surprisingly, heat and a/c worked when I picked it up. Currently it is sitting on 3" of body lift, and a 3/2 suspension lift (Rancho shocks all around, Rancho springs in front, and 2" lift blocks in rear). It has aftermarket rims with 35" tires, which need replacing soon.
Some of the cool parts it came with are a manual central axle disconnect, so that takes care of the pesky vacuum control (and makes dropping in a 242 easier), M1 intake, cast aluminum Mopar valve covers, cast aluminum transmission pan, and a 52mm throttle body.
Cosmetically, there is a little rust forming on the passenger wheel arch. Bed liner was sprayed (maybe rolled) in the bed and along the rockers. Evidently the correct preparation wasn't used because its flaking. Rear window needs to be replaced, it looks pretty sketchy. I think the previous, previous owner used RTV to try to "glue" it to the truck
When I first bought it
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)